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FLASHBACK

We love our local restaurant community and have been keeping our fingers on the pulse for 70 years. One of our favorite past times is to read and collect the restaurant reviews found weekly inside The Post and Courier. Going back to the days of Peter Herman and Jane Kronsberg, we have hundreds of them that we love reading every so often and reliving some of our city’s past as it relates to food.

Since we love reading them so much, we thought it would be fun to share with our customers and community friends. As part of our new website redesign, we are excited to have a special section dedicated to showcasing the old reviews alongside a “where are they now” report. We will select a new review every week and post it. We will also have a fun update on the restaurant, the chef or even the menu as it is today as part of the recap. It is part of our “Flashback Fridays” and we hope you will enjoy.

Limehouse Produce FlashBack Fridays: SNOB’s Review 6.20.14

 

SNOB P&C Review

Limehouse Produce Flashback Fridays Review: SNOB
Review Date: Thursday, January 18, 1996

Slightly North of Broad, or SNOB as it is known, has become a Charleston institution. A fixture along East Bay Street, the restaurant embodies the qualities that have made Charleston a top culinary destination. Celebrating their twentieth anniversary last year, SNOB has held true to the maverick philosophy of its roots.

Jane Kronsberg reviewed SNOB for a second time in 1996, and in her review made note of many characteristics that have underpinned the restaurant’s approach since opening more than two decades ago. To discuss SNOB’s success since the review, we recently sat down with the leadership team at Maverick Southern Kitchens, including Dick Elliott, President and Founder; David Marconi, Director of Operations; and Frank Lee, Vice President of Culinary Development and Executive Chef at SNOB and Old Village Post House.

The team at SNOB seemingly has found the balance between consistency and change, and professionalism and whimsy. Most notably, and certainly scarce in the restaurant industry, the tenure of the leadership staff is the very definition of consistency. Elliott founded Maverick Southern Kitchens in 1989, Marconi joined the company in 1991, and Lee completed the team the following year.

Elliott

Dick Elliott

Elliott, a self-described recovering lawyer, wanted the challenge of running a restaurant. With a business background, knowledge in marketing and an understanding of customer relationships, he wanted to utilize Lee’s culinary talents and Marconi’s extensive knowledge of the food and beverage business to understand the personality of the restaurant industry.

SNOB (Elliott, Marconi, and Lee): Early on, we agreed to create a great restaurant by following sound business practices. We foremost provide leadership, we understand the fundamentals of the industry, and exude a passion for the community. Our personalities complement each other, and we have come to work as three legged stool, as they say, each possessing a strong entrepreneurial spirit and approaching the restaurant with a sense of responsibility typified by ownership.

Maintained over the years is a commitment to honor their original objective which is to provide the customer with a distinctive experience based on consistency, quality, and value. Recalling a moment from their first two weeks in business, Elliott is still inspired by a comment from a patron who noted on her way out that “it just felt good to be there.” It remains his goal 20 years later to ensure each patron leaves with that same feeling and is, in part, what they attribute to their long-term success. 

Marconi

David Marconi

SNOB: Remaining relevant and keeping up with what customers are looking for—from local products to a menu full of choices—is certainly part of why we have been around for so long. Also, our commitment to service is extremely important. Employees go through an intense training regime, they are excited about the food, knowledgeable about the wine, and highly informed in the way they speak about the menu. We are proud of our staff’s understanding of both the fundamental and advanced techniques of service—both on the culinary side and in the front-of-house.

In Kronsberg’s 1996 review, she noted that the menu, patrons and décor were surprisingly eclectic. Back then, they described their menu as maverick in style and still consider it as such; the menu remains “wild with possibilities,” as Kronsberg described.

Lee

Frank Lee

SNOB: Maverick to us means the freedom to express the cuisine in any way we want, veering away from being pigeonholed into a genre. The French technique still holds true, but our team’s personalities have been infused into the food over time. The menu remains eclectic today, but has been enriched with seasonality and the use of products from local farmers. From sweetbreads to quail to grouper, the menu is designed to provide our guests with choices.

The menu at SNOB employs change to balance consistency. The entire menu changes several times a year, however; the specials menu offering more than four unique items changes daily. And they have never been afraid to remove the so-called sacred cows from the menu, including the crab cake and the barbecue tuna. “Lunch is especially an opportunity to express creativity, as well as get to know the locals,” noted Elliott.

Alongside the South of Broad crowd, the restaurant sees many visiting families and even college students. Once described as the “21 Club” of Charleston, lunch at SNOB has come to be the place on East Bay Street for the who’s who in town to dine.

The décor also can still  be described as maverick. The restaurant renovated the bar back when mini bottles were ousted, and, much to Lee’s chagrin, they added rather distinctive lime green barstools. The archway in the back of the dining area continues to define the space; however, if Lee were to get his way, he would add a fountain to the middle of the restaurant—his answer to Elliott’s beloved barstools.
One last nod to consistency and SNOB’s ability to endure for more than two decades, Elliott noted that each of them has been married to their wives throughout their careers for a combined 95 years of marriage—perhaps this is the ultimate secret to their success.

We look forward to working with SNOB, Dick, David, and Lee (and their wives) for many more years. 

Front

 

Limehouse Produce Flashback Fridays: Magnolias Review 6.6.14

Magnolias Flashback reviewFlashback Friday: Magnolias

Review Date: 11/3/1994

Magnolias is a mainstay of the culinary scene in downtown Charleston. For more than two decades, the restaurant has held its place as one of the city’s most prestigious establishments thanks to its distinct approach to traditional southern fare, unique wine program and unparalleled service. Critic Jane Kronsberg first reviewed Magnolias in 1992 and again two years later echoing the restaurant’s continued success, noting its progressive take on wine and steady stream of diners even midweek.

 
When speaking recently with Chef Drake and TJ Parsell, owner and president of Hospitality Management Group, we asked them to provide their thoughts on what has changed, what remains the same, and what keeps guests coming back year after year.

Magnolias Don Drake

Parsell: As Magnolias approaches its 25th anniversary in 2015, guests continue to look to this staple for the original Southern charm they have come to know and love since it opened its doors. Magnolias’ continued excellence in providing diners timeless Lowcountry cuisine keeps visitors hungry to return. The consistency of Magnolias’ charming atmosphere and celebrated cuisine beckons locals and visitors in to this East Bay St. classic year after year.

One of the most notable consitencies from the early reviews is that of Chef Don Drake. A rarity in the culinary industry, Chef Drake has been at the helm for all but 2 of the 24 years Magnolias has been open, keeping the restaurant true to its southern roots.

Drake: My tenure at Magnolias is attributed to the Parsell Family. Tom & Suzie [Parsell] were great mentors—Suzie with her philanthropy and support of local events and Tom, sharing both his business and personal advice. He was like an older brother, and we had a lot of fun over the years (and he kept me out of trouble!). Now with TJ’s leadership, it seems like we haven’t missed a beat. We work well together and have great plans for the future. It would be really hard to work for another company—I think I’d just retire and go sailing.

Parsell: In this business, it’s all about consistency and quality in food and service. Drake’s tenure at Magnolias has eliminated many of the problems restaurant face with turnover, especially in upper management.

While consistency in staff, food and service have clearly served the establishment well, Magnolias recently underwent major renovations resulting in a new color palate and refreshed décor that underscores the restaurant’s prowess to endure.The reaction to the new space from diners and critics alike has been overwhelmingly positive.

New P&C Review

Parsell: As the menu evolves with time, it was important to us to also adjust the design and atmosphere, providing the best dining experience for our guests. The space has been updated with a sophisticated look, but guests will still feel like they are in their favorite spot for world-class Southern cuisine.

Magnolias’ continued presence in the community has delivered a comforting and familiar dining experience for more than two decades, and we look forward to enjoying all that the restaurant has to offer for years to come.

 

 

Other notes:

  • Kelly Franz, Chef de Cuisine, has been with the team for 11 years.
  • The chicken livers, a guest favorite, have never been taken off the menu.
  • Two featured oil paintings and several lithographs from Ron Goebel’s Magnolias Suite, commissioned by Tom Parsell for the opening of Magnolias in 1990 still remain in the restaurant.

Magnolias Dinning Room

Limehouse Produce FlashBack Fridays: Anson’s review 5.23.14

Anson 001Flashback Friday: Anson

It breaks our heart to see a restaurant like Anson Restaurant catch on fire. Worst of all, it happened Christmas eve, right before some of the busiest days planned for the downtown institution. Thankfully there were no injuries from the incident and plans call for the repairs to be finished in the coming months. We look forward to what is in store.

For this Flashback Friday, we feature one by Peter Herman. Herman gave an “extraordinary” rating for food and close to same for service and ambiance. Chef Mike Lata was running the kitchen at the time of the review so there was no wonder Herman had the experience he did.

The menu at the time is much different from the fare you will find at either of Lata’s restaurants but you can see some of the techniques and ingredients still remain part of the mix. One of the first items Herman mentions is the gorgonzola, pear and pistachio pizza and then he goes on to highlight items like She Crab soup, lump crab cakes, crackling calamari and a Caesar salad. Reviewing the menu posted online today, most of all those items are still a mainstay for Anson, minus the pizza. Even today, you can still see the influence Lata had on the menu.

Time will tell what the décor will be after the rebuilding, but the location remains the same. With carriage tours passing by the large windows and New Orleans-style iron balconies, it will remain a top spot for visitors and locals alike to enjoy a charming, southern inspired dinner.

 anson

 

 

Limehouse Produce FlashBack Fridays: Charleston Grill’s review 5.16.14

Charleston Grill Flashback ReviewReview Date: 12/11/1997

Charleston Grill is undeniably one of the most popular restaurants in Charleston consistently wowing dinners over the years with top notch service, an impressive wine list and some of the best cuisine by a pool of talented chefs. Chef Michelle Weaver, one of the city’s only female executive chefs, quickly made a name for herself and continues to offer amazing cuisine. In her role, she follows two other award-winning chefs, including Chef Bob Waggoner and Chef Louis Osteen, all of whom have had a significant imprint on the restaurant and local culinary scene.

During this review by critic Jane Kronsberg, Chef Weaver was chef de cuisine. We recently sat down with her and General Manager Mickey Bakst to ask them to share insight into the continued growth and success of the restaurant:

Weaver and BakstCharleston Grill (Bakst and Weaver): The overall theme for Charleston Grill today is clean, light and fresh. Reflecting on our old menu, it was much wordier than it is today. Every component was listed on it and it mostly was all French based. The menu now reflects the changes we have made over the years—it’s a cleaner approach with less content and easier to navigate. We recognize we have a diverse clientele—both local and visitor—and want to offer something for everybody.

Charleston Grill did have a significant renovation in 2009 and along with the space becoming more airy and light, the menu reflected the same transition. The goal was to maintain their roots but to show that they understood and catered to a diverse audience with a myriad of tastes and needs.

MW: We divided our menu into four distinctive areas—pure, lush, southern and cosmopolitan, and it changes often. The menu that Kronsberg reviewed was quite opposite and did not change as often. However, we still have some of the classic items guests over the years have come to expect, including the crab cakes, the ribeye, the tile fish and caviar.

The review mentions the caviar and crabcakes as favorites, and it is no wonder why they have lasted so long on the menu. Other items Kronsberg noted was the wine and how impressive the list was. That too has only improved under the leadership of Bakst and Rick Rubel, Charleston Grill Sommelier. 

MB: Back then, the list was much more focused around French brands and heavy on Boudreaux and Burgundy labels. Along with everything else, we decided to lighten it up and expanded the scope of the list. Now every region of the wine world is represented and there is something to meet every price range, from $30 a bottle to bottles in the thousands of dollars.

Service at one point was considered not so stellar; however, in recent years it has become a focal point of the overall dining experience. This refocus has earned the restaurant several semi-finalist nominations for the coveted James Beard Foundation’s annual awards.

MB: Exceptional service is important to us at the Grill. We believe in details, and our staff is trained thoroughly to make sure that the guests’ needs are anticipated and exceeded. At the same time we want to come across as warm, relaxed and welcoming. Our goal is to make sure every guest longs to come back and visit with us often.

We appreciate this transformation and attention to detail and look forward to many more years of outstanding service, wine and dining at  the Grill.

 Fun Facts:

  • Michelle Weaver moved to Charleston with Chef Bob Waggoner in 1997 to work with him at the Grill after working with him in Nashville, TN.
  • Weaver was at the Grill the night of the review. She commented that Jane came in following Hurricane Floyd and that the city was still recovering from resulting damage and power outages.
  • One painting from the restaurant’s extensive collection, “Bessie Mae” by artist Jonathan Green, remains in the restaurant to this day, withstanding renovations and, like the restaurant, the test of time.Dining Room

Limehouse Produce FlashBack Fridays: Carolina’s review 5.9.14

carolinas

Review Date: January 27, 2000

When news broke recently about the closing of Carolina’s, we couldn’t help think back on all the memories and meals we have enjoyed at the downtown restaurant. The previous chefs alone—Rose Durden, Donald Barickman, Jeremiah Bacon, Jill Mathias—are all incredibly talented and have gone on to continue to lead some of the best kitchens in Charleston.

This 2000 review by Peter Herman says it all. In his starting paragraph he boldly states that “everyone should make Carolina’s one of their regular stops.” Herman references the old “Charleston” feel the place exudes which one might say remained a part after the location’s original restaurant Perdita’s closed. It was nice to see the owners of Carolina’s name a room after Perdita’s legacy; clearly recognizing the significance of the restaurant that it was before it re-opened as Carolina’s.

At the time of the review Chef “Mama” Rose was at the helm and Herman’s main complaint was that there were too many attractive options to choose from. There was over 35 appetizers, soups and salads, 35 main dishes and over a dozen desserts—something you don’t find very often in today’s menus. It was clear Rose brought a new flavor to the menu and mixed it up by combining Asian, Southern and other ethnic flavors. Some of the highlights from the 4 ½ star review was the Carolina jumbo crab cake, shrimp and crabmeat wontons, sweet potato crusted filet of flounder and sautéed Charleston shrimp with Andouille sausage. He enjoyed the wine list that was at the time recently reviewed by the Wall Street Journal and commented on how great the service and kitchen team were.

Herman’s leaving impression is one that we can take with us today as a part of Charleston’s culinary history closes—“that was fun. We need to go back.” We will keep our eyes peeled for what is next for the space and hope whatever happens to the space, it will follow the footsteps and provide the memoires and the meals that Perdita’s and Carolina’s gave at one time to our city.

 

 

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